How To Install Mailbox On Stucco Wall

I want to install security external security cameras and will need to drill through the stucco to run a power supply wire into the garage. The house was constructed in early 1993, so I am not 100% certain which kind of stucco exterior I have.

• How To Install Mailbox Post

Stone and stucco are two of man's oldest building materials. Stucco dates to at least 500 B.C. and was used in ancient Greece. It was used in early America and was especially popular in Florida, California and southwest areas with Spanish heritage. It is a cement-based material that closely resembles the 'scratch' coat used as a base for stonework installed on wood-sheathed walls, so it is a suitable backing for stone veneer. Check local building codes before starting a stone veneer project; a building permit may be required in some cases.

1

Clean your stucco wall of any dirt or debris, and patch any cracks or broken spots with stucco repair. Remove any window or door trim or other objects, and install metal flashing around openings if they are not already fully flashed. Fasten a metal angle iron to the base plate of the wall with lag bolts to provide a straight base and water barrier.

2

Mix mortar in a large container, using a prepared mix. Check the stone supplier's recommendations for the specific mortar type to use. Stir the mortar mix with water until it has a creamy consistency, smooth enough to spread easily but firm enough to stand on its own. Make small quantities, so the mortar does not dry before it is applied. Discard mortar if it becomes dry or crumbles while you are working.

3

Put some mortar in an angled hand-held container. You can buy the container at a building supply store, or you can make one by nailing two boards at a 90-degree angle. Spread 1/2 to 3/4 inch of mortar on the back of the first stone, and press it firmly into place against the stucco at the bottom of a wall corner. Butter the back of another stone, and set it beside the first, with a gap about 3/8 inch wide between them.

4

Place stones one at a time along and up the wall. Work in a triangular pattern -- lay several stones at the bottom of the wall, then place some up the corner, then fill the gap. Set stones in random fashion or in a pattern if you are using rectangular stones cut into formal shapes. Vary the size of the stones in any style that pleases you. Step back occasionally to check the wall's appearance. You can pull off and change stones until the mortar sets.

5

Cut stones when needed to fit with a circular saw with a masonry blade or a mason's wet saw. Some veneer stones also can be scored with a chisel and snapped in two. Put the cut edges into joints between stones. Pause when you get to within a row or two of the top of the wall, and adjust the size of stones to fit the remaining space. Cut the tops of the last stones straight with a saw.

6

Wait about an hour, until the mortar has started to set, and use a convex steel masonry finishing tool or a round dowel rod to push mortar firmly in place in all joints between stones. Wipe off any mortar that spills with a damp sponge. Use a wire brush to remove any excess mortar that cannot be removed with a sponge after it has dried on the stone face.

7

Grout the mortar joints after about 24 hours. Mix grout and put it in a cloth grout bag with a metal tip -- it resembles a baker's cake decorating tool -- and fill all the mortar joints between stones. Squeeze the bag from the back to force grout out of the tip into the joint. Work from the bottom of the wall to the top until all joints are sealed with grout.

Things You Will Need

• Metal angle iron
• Lag bolts
• Mortar
• Mixing container
• Mortar holder
• Mason's trowel
• Circular saw with masonry blade or mason's wet saw
• Brick finishing tool or round dowel
• Grout
• Grout bag
• Damp sponge
• Wire brush

Tips

• Use either thin-sliced real stone or manufactured stone, which is a concrete material finished to look like real stone. Both are light and easy to work with, and they are installed the same way.
• Practice by building a garden wall or planter box with stone veneer before tackling a wall.
• You need a ladder or scaffolding in most cases to reach the top of the wall.

About the Author

Bob Haring has been a news writer and editor for more than 50 years, mostly with the Associated Press and then as executive editor of the Tulsa, Okla. 'World.' Since retiring he has written freelance stories and a weekly computer security column. Haring holds a Bachelor of Journalism from the University of Missouri.

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How To Install Mailbox Post

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Small, rectangular mailboxes look similar to envelopes and have hinged lids. These mailboxes affix to the sides of a home with screws. To mount a mailbox to the exterior of your home, you need to install screws and in some cases, such as masonry or walls with siding, wall anchors to hold the screws for the mailbox.

1

Hold the mailbox on the wall in the desired mounting position. Make marks on the wall with a pencil through the screw holes at the rear of the mailbox or the bracket attached to the mailbox.

2

Select the proper drill bit type according to the material of the wall you are mounting the mailbox on. Use a masonry drill bit for masonry walls, such as cement blocks or bricks. Use a hammer drill bit for stucco or fake stucco walls. Use a regular drill bit for drywall and wood walls.

3

Find the correct drill bit size to use by holding the mailbox screw up to the light and holding a drill bit up in front of it. The correct drill bit for drilling a pilot hole will cover the solid center of the screw shank with the screw threads showing on either side.

4

Put on safety glasses. Drill pilot holes in wood, drywall or siding with a regular drill bit. Drill the pilot holes 1/8 inch deeper than the length of the screw. If you are drilling pilot holes into brick or concrete block walls, drill the holes into the brick or concrete blocks. Do not drill pilot holes in the mortar joints between the bricks or concrete blocks as this can weaken the wall.

5

Drill pilot holes in stucco or fake stucco cement walls with a hammer drill bit and a hammer drill. Remove drilling dust from the pilot hole by blowing it out with compressed air.

6

Apply a small dab of exterior grade acrylic caulk into each pilot hole. Once the acrylic caulk sets or dries, it will seal the hole in the wall and prevent water damage from occurring.

7

Insert the wall anchor into pilot holes on drywall masonry, siding, stucco or fake stucco walls before the caulk dries. Tap the anchor in with a hammer until the top is flush or even with the surface of the wall. Remove any excess caulk with paper towel.

Things You Will Need

• Pencil
• Masonry drill bit set
• Hammer drill bit set
• Drill bit set
• Safety glasses
• Drill
• Hammer drill
• Compressed air
• Exterior grade acrylic caulk
• Paper towel
• Wall anchor kit
• Hammer
• Paper towel

Warning

• If you get acrylic caulk on your hands, wash it off with soap and water to prevent irritation.

About the Author

Alexis Rohlin is a professional writer for various websites. She has produced works for Red Anvil Publishing and was one of the top 10 finalists in the 2007 Midnight Hour Short Story Contest for OnceWritten.com. Rohlin holds a Bachelor of Fine Arts in English from Madonna University.

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